Recommendation for Shots

Some vets say that the first shots don’t need to be given that early as the puppies should still be covered by the mother’s immunity. I am hestitant to let the puppies go without them having at least one shot. I recently had a puppy that went to California and had a serious reaction following receiving her 12 and 16-week shots. After a complete neurological workup, everything was normal and the specialist could only blame it on a reaction to the shots. It is important to observe your puppy closely after receiving thes vaccines. Any strange reaction should be reported to your vet immediately: e.g. hives, lethargy, shock (gums would be white), etc.

DO NOT TAKE YOUR PUPPY TO PUBLIC PARKS AND AREAS WHERE OTHER DOGS MAY BE UNTIL ALL OF THE SHOTS ARE GIVEN

Intranasal Kennel cough vaccine

Intranasal Kennel cough vacine should not be given until the dog is at least 18 weeks old. Because there has been so much discussion about over-vaccinating dogs, I have tried to give the minimum amount and still give the best coverage. It has been found by research that over-vaccinating can compromise the immune system. Please discuss with your Veterinarian what he/she feels is best for your puppy. This research has been done by Dr. Jean Dodds of CA.

Rabies

We recommend that the Rabies Vaccine be given 3-4 weeks AFTER the 3 distemper/parvo shots are given

Heartworm medication

Please talk to your veterinarian about heart worm medication

Food

Feed Eukanuba Puppy Food for Large Breed Puppies. Feed 2x a day, morning and evening. Give 1-2 cups at each feeding. If the puppy is not eating well, add a tablespoon of canned dog food (I use Pedigree Chopped Beef). Add a soft-boiled egg or 1/2 cup of cottage chees 3-4 times a week for a nice shiny coat.

Treats

Give dog biscuits for treats -unless supervise- NO RAWHIDE!! Dogs should rest for at least two hours after eating and have no strenuous activity during that time to prevent the possibility of Bloat/torsion. This is a good time to keep them in their kennel quietly.

ROPE TOYS ARE DANGEROUS AND PIG EARS ARE UNSANITARY

Hygeine

Keep toenails clipped. Keep teeth cleaned. Ears can be wiped out with an alcohol wipe. If they swim, make sure the ears are dried well.

Breeding

Dogs (either male or female) should never be bred before they are two years old and have an OFA Hip X-Ray number and Certification. Pets should not be bred “just to have a litter.” Please consult with me (Marge mehagian) if you wish to have your dog used for breeding. The gene pool for Vizslas is not very big and it is important to know pedigrees. I do not suggest spaying or neutering your dog before it is one year old, although your vet may recomment that you do it sooner. Again, please talk to me. If you intend to compete with your dog, please be aware that altered dogs CANNOT be shown but CAN be entered in AKC performance events (obedience, agility and hunting events). Those who are going to use this puppy for hunting and have never trained a dog before should call me first for training instructions. It is very easy to make a dog gunshy!! NEVER START SHOOTING AROUND A DOG THAT HAS NEVER BEEN SHOT OVER. Acclimate the puppy to hearing sharp noises. Dropping and banging pots and pans is a good start.

Chewing and Biting

Occasionally a puppy will demonstrate a desire to chew and bite on your hands. This must be addressed immediately and stopped. It is very important that a puppy not feel dominant over you. Do not allow dominant behavior to progress. Turning a puppy on his back several times a day helps to show you are the dominant party. Call me at once if you are having a problem in this area.

Obedience and Socialization

All puppies should be enrolled in an obedience class by six months of age. This allows the puppy and you to learn basic obedience language and procedures. Equally important is the exposure to other dogs, people and normal daily outside activities. Socialization is very important for a dog’s healthy adjustment to its environment. Vizslas do not adjust well to being alone in a back yard for long periods of time. Never go out and leave your puppy outside alone. You can be assured that they will get out (they ae very determined) or get into something potentially dangerous.

Crate Training

PUPPIES MUST BECOME ACCUSTOMED TO A CRATE. This prevents damage to your home when you cannot supervise. The crate is for a puppy’s safety and needs to use it during its lifetime so that it doesn’t consider it a punishment. If dogs are allowed to stay out of the crate all the time, it is difficult to acclimate them to being back in it if necessary- they may resist and bark incessantly. Do not give in to this behaviour. Older dogs probably will be out of their crate most of the time when they become more reliable but it is a good idea to feed them in their crate so that they have daily time in it. All our dogs eat in their crates every day and many of them also sleep in their crates at night. They have learned this from the time they are a few weks old and they never object.

Jumping

Puppies have a habit of jumping up on people or other dogs. Not everyone thinks this is cute but more importantly, many older dogs do not appreciate a puppy jumping up and getting in their face. NEVER let your puppy approach another dog this way, even if you know the other dog is a good guy (sweet, gentle, etc). A recent tragic experience occurred where an older dog just reached out and grabbed a puppy as it walked by. The older dog shook the puppy and killed it. It happened in just seconds. KEEP YOUR PUPPY UNDER CONTROL AT ALL TIMES. DO NOT USE “EXTENDO” LEASHES. YOU DON’T HAVE REAL CONTROL WITH THEM AND IF WALKING ON A SIDEWALK THE DOG COULD RUN OUT INTO THE STREET. Using them in a field or safe place is fine.